Mockups

I’ve decided to initiate my Tutorials page with specific situation in mind. There, I’ve introduced the prototype of my upcoming navy blue derby shoes, knowing that I want to experiment with different last and design. I did that, but the result rendered the situation even more interesting.

At the mockup stage, I’ve realized how insanely complex production process it would become, adding that few design changes. It is one thing to draw nice lines on the last, thinking that shoes like these would be cool to wear on the streets. To make a sketch of the design, while taking the how aspect into account, is a totally different approach altogether. I guess that way of thinking is something I will need to work more over to master.

My recent thought process, regarding the beauty of lines and simplicity, is another trigger here too. My design imagination is pretty wild, but it proves the lack of experience at the same time. Many times, only at the mockup stage, I find that it’s way too late for the reflections on how to stitch that thing on the sewing machine, for instance. I need to put more stress on technical side of my projects in the future. I’m gonna simplify it. But also make it more durable. It looks like I’m ready to take another step towards mature design process.

Sometimes my mockup uppers take part in practice pieces of experimental bottom-making jobs. Many times, I find the particular lines so intriguing that I want to explore those farther.

The ugliness of my design frenzy is something I’m fully aware of. Those experiments serves me to get better at what I do as a craftsman, so there’s no harm to the street, though. Sometimes, I make stuff to understand the functional limits more. Other times, I’m consumed by the looks so much, that I want to see it on my workbench surface as an inspirational object of adoration.

But the truth here is that there’s absolutely no good reason to re-invent the wheel. Every experimentation leads to the conclusion that the function dictates the design in footwear.

There’s not that many things you can add as crazy extra touch, not compromising the function as well. This is the very reason why classic design seems so inevitable to our eyes. But knowing that, it is so exciting to dare to ask questions! The very idea makes your heart beat faster.

So why a mockup is not a prototype? To produce the upper, you will need to create your lines on the last at first. Then copy those lines from the 3D world and translate that to the flat land of paper patterns. Armed with those, it’s a good idea to make your mockup upper, just to double check that your pattern works well on your last. A mockup is always made using inferior leathers and has no construction, stiffeners etc.

Every now and then it happens. Something that was supposed to end-up as mockup only, turns into a proper prototype to check the fitting of the last at that early stage.

Prototype of the upper, on the other hand, is a fully wearable product. It’s very useful, if you want to check on the comfort, before you go ahead into production. I need this stage to work through all the details at least once, before I’m comfortable enough to commence creating ordered production pair. So it is my private practice piece. At that stage, I’m taking notes of all the tricks that I’ve discovered. Basically, all the informations that I find helpful in delivering the work.

All that because my designs are originals and there’s no book to learn how to make them.

I’ve heard a couple of times before from my random colleagues, that my patterns are simply incredible. It is likely that I will not share any tips on that process. It’s a tricky one. Most probably, I will keep it to myself. In my next installment, I will talk more about experimentations regarding a different bottom-making, yet rather dreamy takes.