The forgotten stitch

Sometimes what you won't do seems to be as important as what you're intent of doing.

I wish to be regarded as original. I’m not cut from the same cloth anyway. After trial period, I want to publish future installments behind a paywall. I’d like to cover my expenses in that way to keep this site running.

For now, I’m doing my research comparing online courses and tutorials to figure out what I can bring to the table. At the same time, I already have a nice concept to introduce my favorite shoemaking tools from Starko, offering you tips and useful informations by me showing you how I use those in my everyday workflow. I will commence this series here soon.

Time will tell what this little side project turns into. What I want is something fun, but useful. Playful, but intelligent. Great, but in a new, original way.

This prototype work was fairly quick to figure out. The lines are the result of a single design session. It was a good one. The point was to capture the design idea as simply as it gets and try to re-imagine it, if I feel like it, after some time spent with it. It’s always safe to let it soak in like seasoning.

I guess I will commence this series with the final design session results. Original last that I’ve used to produce the prototype, is different from the production ones. Hence, a need to re-design was inevitable. Well, you will judge it for yourself how it went, at the end of the day. Enjoy!

The prototype

Maybe this derby shoes project could serve us well as an introduction to my tutorial session one. The photo shows you my prototype of that project. I think it’s interesting to get to see how the lines and ideas evolves from that stage into the real-deal pair of shoes. This is the whole idea behind making full-blown prototypes in the first place anyway.

  • Part One - The Design

    I’ve figured that I want to start with something like this series. Divided and thematically tied up in separate sections, taking you with me along the way of creating the derby shoes project. I was inspired by the early days of the cinema. The image is complemented with captions. I hope that this series will shine through next to my absolute love for what I do for a living.

    My work, my photos, my words. Just how I like it.

  • Let’s start with establishing the frame for the design. Absolutely basic stuff.

    It’s a combination of lines and key points on the last. According to those lines, I will anchor my design in a classical way. Usually, I use a masking tape to draw on it, but this time around I will do something different - I will put my design directly on the last.

    At first, measure the full length at the bottom of the last. Mine is 290 mm.

  • Mark the creasing line. It is mighty important section of the last.

    First of all - take your time to estimate the full height of the heel area. I’m looking for that parallel line against the ground level. Customer’s foot should obtain neutral position, so the toes will not slide towards the front of the shoe. Mine is a classic 25 mm.

    The creasing line marks that very point where the bottom hits the ground. Mark that points on both sides and create a line that connects these on top of the last.

  • Mark the key points A and B. The frame is anchored on three key points of the last.

    Create the center line of the last. Point A is marked at the middle of the distance between the feather edge of the last and the center line. Mine measures 76 mm, so the A point is marked at 38 mm.

    Point B is marked accordingly, although the distance is 70 mm. The lateral side is always longer than medial one.

  • Measure a full height of the heel counter. Mark the key point C.

    Take the full length of the last (290) and multiply by 0.22 - you will get your proper height. Mine is at 64 mm. That measurement is your key C point at the same time. Create a straight lines connecting points: A to C and B to C. You’ve got your frame ready to use!

  • Original split toe derby shoes. The result of a single design session. Again.

    Classic execution in navy blue. Original waist, though. Lifted leather heel stack. Hand welted, hand sewn. Interesting, pulled-through split toe solution. Some similarities to the prototype work. I’m very excited about that challenge.

  • To be continued...

    In my next installment we will talk about the upper making process. I think this design is interesting enough to focus on that for a while. I’m pretty sure it’s gonna be a lot of fun, for I will execute some techniques taken from my wholecut creative experience.

  • Part Two - The Upper

    As stated in my Thoughts & Prayers section, things went through some changes. Overall, I decided to simplify the design, although the general vibe is still present. I've already showed you my first take on that task. Thus, there is no point in going back to that. Here, I will walk you through my process of producing the real-deal upper instead.

  • Coming soon

    The only asset I don’t have enough of, is time on my hands. Next installments will be published sporadically, whenever a good moment comes for it.