The forgotten stitch

Sometimes what you won't do seems to be as important as what you intend to do.

I want to be seen as original. I'm not cut from the same cloth anyway. After the trial period, I want to publish subsequent installments behind a paywall. This is how I plan to cover my expenses to maintain this site.

For now, I'm conducting research, comparing online courses and tutorials to see what I can bring to the table. At the same time, I already have an interesting idea for showcasing my favorite shoemaking tools from Starko, offering you tips and useful information, showing how I use them in my daily work. I'll be starting this series soon.

Time will tell what this little side project will become. I want something fun, yet useful. Playful, yet intelligent. Cool, but in a new, original way.

Working on this prototype went quite quickly. The lines are the result of a single design session. It was a successful session. The idea was to capture the design as simply as possible and then try to redesign it if I felt the need after spending some time with it. It's always safe to let this soak in like a seasoning into your mind.

This project has been on my mind long enough to have undergone some changes. I've tried to produce a different upper, even use a completely new last. But I've made my final decisions. You can't keep thinking about it forever...

The prototype

Perhaps this derby shoe design will serve us well as a prelude to my first tutorial session. The photo shows my first prototype for this commission. I think it will be interesting to see how the lines and ideas evolve from this stage to the final pair of shoes. In any case, that's the fun of creating fully functional builds.

  • Part One - The Design

    I thought I'd start with something like this. Divided and thematically linked into separate sections, taking you along on the process of creating a derby shoe design. I was inspired by the early days of cinema. The image is accompanied by captions. I hope this series will shine alongside my absolute love for what I do every day.

    My work, my photos, my words. Just the way I like it.

  • Let’s start with establishing the frame for the design. Absolutely basic stuff.

    This is a combination of lines and key points on the last. Along these lines, I'll anchor my design in the classic way. I usually use masking tape to draw, but this time I'll do something different – ​​I'll place my design directly on the last.

    First, measure the full length of the last at the bottom. Mine is 290 mm.

  • Mark the creasing line. It is mighty important key point.

    First and foremost, take a moment to estimate the total heel height. I'm looking for this line parallel to the ground. The client's foot should be in a neutral position so that the toes don't shift toward the front of the shoe. My size is the classic 25mm.

    The crease line marks the point where the sole touches the ground. Mark these points on both sides and create a line connecting them at the top of the last.

  • Mark key points A and B. The frame is anchored to the three key points.

    Draw the centerline of the last. Point A is marked halfway between the feather edge of the last and the centerline. On my last it reads 76 mm, so point A is marked at 38 mm.

    Point B is marked accordingly, although the distance here is 70 mm. The lateral side is always longer than the medial side.

  • Measure a full height of the heel counter. Mark key point C.

    Measure the full length of the last (290) and multiply by 0.22 to get the correct height. In my case, it's 64 mm. This measurement is also our key point C, marked at the centerline of the heel. Draw straight lines connecting points: A to C and B to C. You now have a frame ready to use! Our guidelines.

  • Original split toe derby shoes. The result of a single design session. Again.

    That's how I planned it. However, sometimes things take their own course. The guidelines we've established here remain universal for every project. However, the design itself will be different. More on that in the next installment.

  • To be continued...

    In the next installment, I'll be covering the process of creating the upper. I think this project is interesting enough to focus on. I'm pretty sure it'll be a lot of fun, as I'll be using techniques drawn from my experience creating wholecuts.

  • Part Two - The Upper

    As I mentioned in the "Thoughts & Prayers" section, some changes have occurred. Overall, I decided to simplify the design, though the general feel remains. I've already shown you my first attempt at this project, so there's no point in going back. Here, I'll walk you through the process of making the final upper.

  • Three takes

  • The Upper Ripens Like a Fruit

    It's going to be even more interesting than I originally envisioned. I'm currently working on my third prototype. I often get tired of wandering through the terra incognita of shoemaking, but on the other hand, my constant questioning is leading me to forge my own style.

  • Coming soon

    The only thing I'm lacking is free time. Subsequent installments will be released sporadically, as the opportunity arises.