Considerations

This lovely, simple design has one more surprise in store…

Only one more element to cover the back of the heel left. Heel counter will come after initial lasting process, to double-check the heel line.

My prototypes has the privilege of covering a last with upper that fits like a well made glove to a gentle hand. Trial and error are just passed memories now, a view from the back seat on the road that is left behind. Working patterns are impatient to become the master ones. Only one element has no such template. Apron is blocked directly on the last, cut and stitched in its fully molded form. Combined with the thick lining leather, that will cover the forefoot section, turns the upper making process into playtime with puzzles.

Insole, my first of its kind experiment. Providing great support for the instep arch, extends to the back to hold a heel like a warm, friendly hand. Some extra fifteen millimeters of material, folded over the last. More like orthopedic one. But that’s not the point here. The reason lies in the construction of the heel section, that popped into my mind way back when. There’s just nothing out there that gives me more confidence than sewing and stitching elements together.

My master patterns will be a happy ones. Heel counter part will be added after lasting. Many details to consider here: thickness of the lining, heel counter and heel stiffener, nailing down that center heel line correctly, measure that perfect fit around the heel, to align with the heel breast line in the final assembly… That’s how I work. Things are how they appear, because I want them this way. I’m in the full control here. The lines are everything in shoemaking.