Integrations

My second prototype of derby shoes in navy blue in production. Probably more balanced than original take. I like this asymmetrical toe design.

This integration process is incredibly satisfying, assuming your working patterns lets you create perfectly matched upper pieces. This type of method to fit the parts together isn't new to me, but I've recently become quite fond of it.

That's why my current favorite design method is directly on the last.

This technique allows you to peel off individual sheets to create their paper counterparts. It's very helpful when working with unusual angles or curves. And that's my bread and butter. It truly is like a puzzle game. The more original the design, the more useful this method becomes.

A set of parts sewn together and ready to use, after measuring the individual parts.

I take a given piece or small set of parts and measure it against my main design on the last. I use my production materials at that stage, because I want to account for the thickness of the final leathers. Sometimes I tape them to the last or use copper nails to attach them.

I like this versatility. If I have a similar pair of lasts, I create just one set of patterns for one shoe and use it on both the left and right. If the feet have different dimensions, I draw my design on each last separately, trying to make it look like a pair. This results in two sets of patterns.

The real fun begins when most of the upper parts are properly measured and ready to use. Then I can assemble them (usually two sets – front and back) and compare them with the original drawing on the last.

It's so beautiful how well they fit together!

If it looks good, I sew everything together. If I need further modifications, I separate the upper from the lining to make them. That's the beauty of bespoke shoemaking – it is true tailoring to the shoe last.

This is how my journey to produce my master patterns looks like. Armed with these I feel confident cutting the finest leather to create the final upper. No surprises, no compromises, just a completely professional job.