An outworker

The art of upper making

To photograph is to paint with the light…

Cool shoemaking

While this is the only thing I haven't actually made, the upper design makes this pair of shoes unique in my portfolio.

I firmly believe that too often we don't ask the right questions when it comes to solutions. For example, we tend to assume that the turmoil of the modern world is rooted in politics. Nothing of the sort!

The problems of this world are spiritual in nature. Therefore, the right question in this case should be based on anthropology as a good starting point.

Similarly, for a bespoke shoemaker, it's crucial to answer the question of income. The basic idea is that our service is dedicated to the golden one percent of the population. Competition is based on the personality and unique style of the shoemaker, as well as the high quality of the work and materials used. The service is for the elite and is expensive. Building a reputation and a respected brand takes years of hard work.

Of course we all want a steady flow of orders and a healthy income. There is one question, though. How to survive before that happen? In my case, I decided to work as a shoemaker for an existing bespoke workshop. Thanks to my natural talents, I knew I could ask for it anywhere in Poland. Self-assurance won't hurt.

It was my lifehack. My own answer to the question: "How the hell can I make a living from my own shoe production?" Many of us do exactly the same thing. I can honestly say it works really well.

I almost gave up on posting this photo, but the bokeh is so beautiful… I have a weakness for photos like this.

The only drawback to this method is that you literally have to focus solely on your work. You can forget about the luxuries that other people with regular jobs enjoy. You have to be willing to work seven days a week, year-round.

Otherwise, you'll never succeed as an independent shoemaker and will end up on the street. This is the foundation of the success of the shoemakers you know and admire. Don't be fooled. Shoemaking is not for everybody.

Why do I think this solution is better than others? Well, if your goal is to be the best at what you do, you should look for ways to learn, practice, and make as many mistakes as possible. People like Daniel Wegan say that an aspiring shoemaker can only decide if the job is for him after about fifty or a hundred pairs. As a complete unknown in the market, you'll never have the opportunity to even ask that question.

I have to admit – I'm lucky. As an outworker, I can experiment and practice every aspect constantly because I don't work to any specifications. The Warsaw workshop very rarely ask for something specific from me. Generally, I almost always make decisions regarding design and construction on behalf of clients. So, I do receive a ready-made pair of lasts and uppers, but the rest of the work is entirely my responsibility.

The design view

I don't usually show the Warsaw workshop pairs, but this one was so impressive that I couldn't resist. I made the lasts myself, so they're almost entirely my work.

It takes a lifetime. So if it's not your true passion, don't even bother. Shoemaking is a lifestyle, not a job.

Sure, it's beautiful and fulfilling. After all, it's a nice story to tell. But it comes at a price, make no mistake about it. That's how I understand it, but don't get me wrong, I'm only at the beginning of my career. I don't want to sound like someone who thinks I've got it all figured out. I'm simply sharing my thoughts with those who want to read my writing.

The textures

A texture study. I like to make that lifted heel stack. It allows for that super sharp profile and consistent height of the heel all around the back of the shoe.

I enjoy making lasts as much as I enjoy making shoes. These are elegant and beautiful. I'm proud of them.

My remote job position is the best that one can ask for. No deadlines, no strict specifications, no pressure. Usually, I can simply do whatever I want with the uppers I'm getting.

It is very rare for me to make lasts as part of our deal. This is something I want to keep for my own book of designs.

But sometimes I do! This brown braided derby pair is one of those. How not to love these? I'm very happy with that last shape and the fit is perfect now. I've made two other pairs for that same customer previously, slightly adjusting each time.

My favorite way of relaxing is cycling. I even built my own workshop away from home, just to be able to justify the ride. In that way, I piece necessity and joy together. You can see it clearly now, don't you? I always do things to spark a feeling of doing something good with my life. I hope you'll enjoy looking at these as much as I enjoyed making them.

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The strategy

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A lastmaker